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In the heart of the Cyclades archipelago, between Naxos and Amorgos, lie four little gems that represent the most authentic essence of Greece: the Lesser Cyclades. These strips of land, each just a few square kilometres in size, retain the charm of a Greece of bygone days, far from the crowds that throng the archipelago’s most famous destinations.
The islands of Koufonissi, Schinoussa, Iraklia and Donoussa form a micro-archipelago where time seems to stand still in the 1980s, when electricity first arrived on these remote lands. Here you won’t find the luxury resorts of Mykonos or the cruises of Santorini, but you will discover Caribbean beaches, crystal-clear waters and a Greek authenticity that elsewhere has become just a memory.
It is a remote and still un-touristy corner of Greece, seemingly catapulted into the present from who knows what other life, where grandmothers in black dresses and peasants with sunburnt skin still tell stories of a life marked by the rhythms of nature and the seasons.
These islands are the perfect alternative for those seeking authenticity, silence and a dreamlike sea without giving up the chance to enjoy excellent local cuisine in the characteristic taverns overlooking the small harbours.
If you are looking for paradise on earth, come to Koufonissi: at 3.5 square kilometres, this island is the most popular and accessible destination in the Lesser Cyclades. Ano Koufonissi, the only one of the three islets of the archipelago to be inhabited, will welcome you with beaches of fine white sand and turquoise waters that are nothing like the Caribbean.
The island can be explored completely on foot in a day, via paths that connect the different bays along the south-east coast. The harbour and Chora are concentrated in the northern area, where traditional white houses overlook cobbled streets, animated by family taverns and small shops selling local products.
The southern coast of Koufonissi offers some of the most spectacular beaches in the entire Cycladic archipelago. Pori Beach, the main beach, stretches for hundreds of metres with golden sand and emerald waters, protected from the meltemi winds by its exposure.
Fanos Beach and Platia Pounda complete the trio of main beaches, reached via coastal paths that offer breathtaking views of the surrounding islands. During the summer, small taxi boats connect the harbour with the more remote coves, allowing one to discover hidden bays only accessible by sea.
Schinoussa is number 2 for the sea, the pure sea: this island of 8.5 square kilometres retains an agricultural vocation that distinguishes it from its sisters. The Chora does not directly overlook the sea but develops inland, around the church of Panagia Akathi, giving the island a more intimate and authentic character.
With its 12 beaches spread along the coast, Schinoussa offers the highest density of bays per square kilometre of the Lesser Cyclades. Tsigouri, Livadi and Almyros are the main beaches, characterised by golden sand and crystal-clear seabed sloping gently towards the open sea.
The particularity of Schinoussa lies in its peaceful atmosphere: here tourism has not yet altered the local pace of life. The dirt roads that criss-cross the hinterland lead to panoramic views and small chapels surrounded by Mediterranean scrub, where the scent of wild fava beans and herbs accompanies the walks.
In the evening, life is concentrated in the central square of the Chora, where residents and visitors meet to chat and organise the next day’s excursions, in an atmosphere reminiscent of Greece decades ago.
Iraklia, at 18 square kilometres, is the largest of the Lesser Cyclades but, paradoxically, the least populated, with only 115 inhabitants devoted mainly to fishing and agriculture. Is little but good a motto that suits you? Then Iraklia is the Greek island for you.
The island preserves traces of the Cycladic civilisation in the Cave of St John, where important archaeological finds have been unearthed. The landscape, characterised by barren hills and rugged coastline, offers wild, unspoilt views that hark back to the most primitive and authentic Greece.
The simplicity of Iraklia is reflected in its organisation: a single road connects the port of Agios Georgios to the Chora, while four main beaches dot the southern coast. Livadi, the most famous beach, is reached via a 20-minute path through the Mediterranean maquis.
Alimia and Karvounolakos complete the bathing offer, offering sheltered bays where silence is only broken by the sound of the waves. The lack of public transport and car hire makes Iraklia the ideal destination for those who want to rediscover the pleasure of walking and living at the rhythm of nature.
Donoussa, located north-east of the other Lesser Cyclades, represents the last frontier of the archipelago. With its 14 square kilometres of mountainous terrain and a rougher sea due to its greater exposure to the meltemi, this island attracts free campers and travellers in search of adventure.
14 square kilometres of peace: Donoussa is a small island that invites you to leave your car behind and walk around. The harbour of Stavros welcomes visitors with its characteristic early 20th century bell tower, surrounded by white houses and brightly coloured bougainvillea.
The beaches of Donoussa, Kedros and Livadi stand out for their wild beauty and scenic location. Surrounded by spectacular rock formations, these bays offer a more adventurous bathing experience, ideal for those who enjoy snorkelling and exploring the seabed.
The mountainous hinterland offers hiking trails that lead to breathtaking views of the entire Lesser Cyclades archipelago, while small chapels hidden among the vegetation provide perfect places for meditation and relaxation.
Days in the Lesser Cyclades flow to the rhythm of a ship, the Express Scopelitis, revered as a travelling and living companion. This historic ferry is the main connection between the islands, operating daily on the Naxos-Amorgos route with intermediate stops.
Piraeus offers direct connections with Blue Star Ferries three times a week, while from Santorini and Mykonos there are summer connections with fast hydrofoils. Sailing times vary from 40 minutes to 4.5 hours depending on the destination and type of vessel.
None of the Lesser Cyclades has its own airport. The nearest airports are Naxos (only domestic flights from Athens), Mykonos and Santorini (direct flights from Europe in summer). Athens airport remains the most reliable option for reaching the islands, with subsequent transfer by sea from Piraeus.
The Small Cyclades lend themselves perfectly to being combined with visits to the neighbouring larger islands. Naxos, with its rich history and spectacular beaches, is just 2 hours away by boat and can be reached daily by the Skopelitis Express.
Amorgos, made famous by the film ‘Le Grand Bleu’, offers dramatic landscapes and the monastery of Panagia Hozoviotissa, one of the most photographed sites in the Cyclades. Daily connections make it possible to organise day trips or extended stays to explore more islands.
The Lesser Cyclades offers mainly family-run studios and flats, maintaining the authentic atmosphere of a traditional Greek holiday. In Koufonissi, the largest accommodation offer is concentrated near the harbour, with accommodation ranging from small boutique hotels to sea-view flats.
Schinoussa and Iraklia offer mainly renovated traditional houses and rooms for rent with local families, ideal for those seeking direct contact with Greek culture. Donoussa remains the most spartan destination, frequented mainly by free campers and travellers with tents.
Advance booking is essential, especially for the summer months when the islands’ limited accommodation capacity fills up quickly. Prices generally remain more affordable than in the larger Cyclades, reflecting the less commercial approach of these destinations.
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